#1) Jackstand points for front

#2) Jackstand points front and rear

I use the rear lifting points for the rear jack stands.

#3) Height

I jack the car up to 15" -17" from the floor. Remove the rear wheels.

#4) Tie rod

Remove left and right rear tie rods.

18mm and #40 torx

#5) Shocks

Remove lower shock bolts. Lifting the A-arm will take the weight off the shock and the bolts will just slide out. Repeat on other side.

15/16"

#6) Tie rod and shock removed

This will now let you swivel the rotors out of the way for easier access to the lower ball joint nuts.

#7) Lower ball joints

Lossen the nut on the ball joint until it tops out against the hub on the axle. Repeat on other side.

#8) Lower ball joint

Use a ball joint seperating tool to remove ball joint from lower A-arm. Repeat on other side.

#9) Lower ball joint

Use your floor jack to lift on the rotor to lift off of the ball joint. Repeat on other side.

#10) Lower ball joint

Removed.

#11) Removing axles

Lift up on the bottom of the rotor and pull until the axle comes out of the side of the rear. Repeat on other side.

#12) Holding drive assembly up

You need to hold the drive assembly up with a jack or jack stand. If you are just replacing the rear you can place the jack under the transmission. If you are removing the trans. also place the jack under the torque tube.

#13) Removing Sub-frame

There are 4) 21mm nuts at the four corners of the frame and 2) 18mm nuts under the rear. 21mm and 18mm deep sockets needed.

Rear nut.

#14) Removing Sub-frame

Front nut.

#15) Dropping the sub-frame

Place a jack under the sub-frame at the spring.

If you have help 2 people can hold the frame up while the last 2) 18mm nuts are removed.

#16) Dropping the sub-frame

Remove the 2) 18mm nuts under the rear.

These connect the sub-frame to the rear.

#17) Dropping the sub-frame

After the last 2 nuts the sub-frame is ready to be lowered.

#18) Differential mount

You do not have to remove this mount.

I do, so I can get a good flat area to balance the rear on the floor jack for lowering to the ground.

#19) Mount removed

#20) Remove Exhaust

Remove the exhaust system all the way to the manifolds and the heat shield. Long tube headers will need to be removed also.

#21) Lowering Assembly

Ready to start lowering the assembly.

*If you are doing just the clutch you can go to step #39) after you have unplugged the connectors #23) & #33) and removed the shifter box and linkage. #31) Only do this if you have a strong jack ( like an ATV or transmission jack) and some help. The assembly is balanced at the transmission.

#22) Lowering Assembly

You can lower the assembly as pictured without doing any damage to the firewall.

#23) Removing Differential

Lowered and ready to unplug the speed sensor.

#24) Removing Differential

Support the rear on a floor jack.

There are 2) 13mm bolts at the top and 3) 15mm nuts, one on each side, and one on the bottom.

Remove these.

#25) Removing Differential

Pry the rear from the transmission and start to pull your jack back.

#26) Removing Differential

#27) Removing Differential

As you pull back on the jack start to lower it to clear the tub.

#28) Removing Differential

#29) Removing Differential

#30)

You can see here that you do not need to remove the shifter if all you are doing is changing the rear.

#31) Removing Transmission

Remove shifter box from torque tube 2) 40 torx and shifter linkage 1) 13mm.

#32) Removing Transmission

#33) Removing Transmission

Remove the 8) 13mm bolts that hold the transmission to the torque tube.

Unplug the 4) electrical connectors, 2) on the left side, 1 on the top, and 1) on the right side of the transmission case.

#34) Removing Transmission

Pry the transmission from the torque tube.

#35) Removing Transmission

#36) Removing Transmission

#37) Removing Transmission

#38) Removing Transmission

#39) Removing Torque Tube

Remove the 5) 13mm bolts that hold the tube to the bellhousing.

#40) Removing Torque Tube

#41) Removing Torque Tube

Rear of torque tube balancing on floor jack.

#42) Removing Torque Tube

Pry the tube away from the bell housing.

2) 10mm bolts hold the slave cylinder to the torque tube. Disconnect the line between the slave and master cylinders.

#43) Removing Torque Tube

Slide the tube back using the floor jack to support the rear of the tube.

#44) Removing the Clutch

Remove the lower bell housing. 6) 10mm bolts 2) 15mm bolts

#45) Removing the Clutch

Bottom of bellhousing removed.

#46) Removing the Clutch

There are 6) 13mm clutch bolts. You need to turn the flywheel to get all 6. I use a large flat blade screwdriver.

#47) Removing the Clutch

Clutch is out and ready for a new pilot bearing.

#48) Installing the Clutch

Sequence numbers on clutch.

#49) Installing the Clutch

Using a clutch alignment tool to center the clutch you can start to torque the pressure plate bolts in proper sequence and Mfgs.torque specs. 6) 15mm bolts.

GM wants four passes with a final torque of 52lbs.